Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ’s) regarding Wilton land use
Below are 41 of the Conservation department's most frequently asked questions. Please click on one of the questions below to see the answer.
- Are there regulations affecting what I do on my property?
Yes. There are Building Codes, Health Codes, Planning and Zoning Regulations and Inland Wetland and Watercourse Regulations all working to protect you, our community and our natural resources. These codes and regulations were conceived in response to an identified problem or need. For instance, one concern of the Health Code is to assure that wells and structures are placed far enough from septic systems to prevent contamination. The Wetland Regulations are intended to protect downstream properties from actions taken upstream. Any new structures require a review and permits by various land use departments, and clearing and grading projects require at least a review and possibly permits.
- Why is the Town interested in what I do on my property,
so long as it is not harming anyone?
The Town is interested in several things people do on their property because much of what we do affects our neighbors. While one- and two-acre parcels are reasonably large, it is quite easy to intrude on our neighbors through alterations of drainage patterns, new construction or sedimentation, for example. Further, one person’s interpretation of “not hurting” anyone often is not consistent with a neighbor’s view and may fail to take into account the big picture and how individual acts accumulate to create an impact. The land use laws are intended to safeguard the community’s interest and allow every homeowner the assurance of knowing what they can expect to be allowable on surrounding properties.
- How can I learn about these land use regulations?
Are they written somewhere?
As with any regulation or law, it is a citizen’s responsibility to investigate what laws and rules exist that are pertinent to their situation. Town Hall personnel are here to serve Wilton’s citizens, including answering general information questions. The Building Code, Health Code, Inland Wetland and Watercourse Regulations and Planning and Zoning Regulations are all in print and available for review or purchase at Town Hall. They are also available at the Wilton Library.
- Who enforces the regulations?
With respect to the Inland Wetland and Watercourse Regulations, it is the responsibility of the Inland Wetlands Commission to enforce regulations and permits. The Commission has designated an agent, Wilton’s Director of Environmental Affairs, to enforce the regulations. Should the Commission fail to uphold regulations and ignore its responsibility to enforce the Connecticut General Statutes, the Connecticut Department of Environmental Protection has the right to move in and enforce the state statutes. Similarly, the Planning and Zoning Commission, through designated staff, enforces the Zoning Regulations and issues permits. Staff responsible for enforcing the regulations are the Town Planner, the Assistant Town Planner and the Zoning Enforcement Officer.
Neither the Building Department nor Health Department have commissions to implement regulations. However, the State Codes are enforced by the Building Inspector and Director of Health, respectively.
- I know I need a building permit for the work I am
planning; what other permits will I need?
When a homeowner or contractor comes in to secure a building permit, he or she will be given a checklist indicating what other departments need to review the proposal. Each department will need to see at least a site plan showing the proposal. This review process takes 1-10 days depending on the complexity of the project and the level of detail available on a site. Town officials listed on the checklist are available from 8:00 - 10:00 a.m., Monday through Friday, to assist walk-ins; otherwise appointments will be taken.
- All these departments seem quite complicated. Why
isn’t there just one person who can answer all of my
questions regarding a project?
Each department’s land use regulations are quite complex. No one person on staff could realistically provide all of the answers to the questions we receive. It is best to get answers from each department whose staff is continually apprised of regulation changes and technological developments. To the best of our ability we will direct people to the other departments involved and to some of the basic concerns those departments will likely have to help them avoid pitfalls and make the process as smooth as possible.
- What is the most common building permit violation?
The most common work done without permits includes basement finishes, kitchen remodeling, sheds and decks.
- What happens if work was done at my house without
a building permit?
Most work done without a permit is considered a violation. If there is any doubt about whether a permit is required for the work you are contemplating, please contact the appropriate Land Use Office. From a Building Department perspective, the work may be required to be exposed for code compliance. This includes the footings, framing, electrical, plumbing, HVAC and insulation. Or you may be required to submit letters from licensed mechanical contractors certifying the work was done in compliance with the current code (does not include footings). The contractors will also be required to obtain mechanical permits for the work.
- What permits do I need to remove my fuel oil tank?
No municipal permits are required to remove your buried oil tank. However, installation of a new tank will require a permit. Whether placed inside or outside, the tank installation will require a permit from the Building Department. If the new tank is to be installed outside above ground, permits will be required from the Building Department and the Planning and Zoning Office; and if the tank is to be placed within 50 feet of a wetland or 100 feet of a watercourse, a wetlands permit will be required from the Inland Wetlands Commission.
- Do I need a permit for air conditioner units (technically
referred to as HVAC)?
Because these units are considered structures, they are subject to wetland and zoning review, and of course, as mechanical units the Building Department would also regulate their installation. The need for HVAC often arises in conjunction with other construction on-site, but is rarely included in the initial project description by the applicant. The result is that the wetland review and zoning permit would not include this aspect of the project and subsequent permits will then be necessary. To avoid revisiting the land-use departments and additional permits homeowners are encouraged to contemplate the desire for central air at the time the addition, etc. is designed.
- Do I need a permit for a propane tank?
Yes, permits are required for propane tanks. All tanks will require a Building Permit. A Zoning Permit is required for those tanks being placed above ground. And a Wetland Permit would be required for any tank, above or below ground within areas regulated by the Inland Wetland and Watercourses Regulations (see question 15 for a description of the regulated areas).
- If I want to create a play area in my yard for my
children, do I need a permit?
If creating a play area includes clearing and/or grading within 50 feet of a wetland or 100 feet of a watercourse, then yes, you need a wetlands permit. Clearing and grading within regulated areas requires a permit regardless of the reason for these activities. Unfortunately, play areas - including swing sets, trampolines and the like - are often the subject of violations because homeowners are not aware of wetland regulations and thus think they have no reason to check in with Town Hall.
- What is a wetland?
For most people, the perception of a wetland is limited to swamps and marshes. In fact, surface-dry woodlands, meadows and even lawns can be identified as wetlands. The difference between perception and reality lies below the ground surface in the physical and chemical features of the soil. In Connecticut, wetlands are defined not by what is visible on the surface but by the first 18 to 24 inches of the soil. A wetland is caused by groundwater coming to or near the surface or by a restrictive layer (clay or ledge) blocking water from percolating downward. When the soil is saturated for a prolonged period every year for many years (think geologic time), an aerobic (lacking oxygen) condition develops. The absence of oxygen in turn causes chemical reactions in the soil, most notably affecting iron, that create a distinctive set of physical features such as soil coloring and mottles. In this part of the state, wetland soil is typically grayish with orange splotches (mottles).
- Why is a wetland worth protecting?
In 1972, recognizing the benefits wetlands bring to society and the natural world, the Connecticut General Statutes were revised to include the Inland Wetlands Act specifically targeting the protection of wetlands and watercourses. Wetlands serve human needs by detaining storm water, reducing the potential threat of flood damage, and by cleansing surface water of sediments and pollutants before it enters the ground water that supplies our wells. Wetlands help maintain base flows for watercourses, provide a water supply for wildlife and furnish breeding and nesting sites for various species, many of which will breed or nest only in wetlands.
Wilton responded to the new legislation by establishing a separate commission focusing on wetland issues alone. Most of our Inland Wetlands Commission members have participated in the Department of Environmental Protection training sessions to learn about wetland functions and impacts of disturbance. And they have access to technical staff for additional guidance.
- When do I need a wetland permit?
Wetlands and the 50-foot buffer adjacent to them, and watercourses along with a 100-foot buffer, are regulated by the Inland Wetlands and Watercourses Act of the Connecticut General Statutes as interpreted by Wilton’s own Inland Wetlands and Watercourses Regulations.
In general, the types of activities in regulated areas on developed residential parcels requiring permits include: the construction or placement of any structures, including sheds; alteration of the topography; installation of curtain drains or the like; pond or stream maintenance; septic repairs; and alteration of the vegetation. The latter regulated activity is the one most likely to be done in violation of the regulations, resulting in an enforcement action by the Town. Some landscape maintenance may be carried out without a permit. But the regulations defining what landscape maintenance can be done are somewhat vague and therefore are often misinterpreted.
Because it is difficult to determine with accuracy the limits of wetlands and watercourses, we encourage people to contact the office of the Inland Wetlands Commission for a free, on-site consultation with town staff before you begin any building, landscaping, tree removal or regrading project. Even though a wetland is determined by the soil, the surface features can assist in delineating a wetland boundary. In undisturbed areas,vegetation found in these saturated soils is well adapted to the high groundwater condition. Further, wetlands usually coincide with depressions in the landscape, in valleys, and adjacent to watercourses. What makes wetland identification more difficult is the extensive manipulation our landscape has undergone over time. Piping, ditching, filling and clearing mask the surface wetland features one would expect to see.
- Is a stream that dries up periodically still regulated?
Yes, streams that flow year-round or for only certain portions of the year are subject to regulation. Specifically, watercourses are defined as rivers, streams, brooks, waterways, lakes, ponds, marshes, swamps, bogs and other bodies of water. These can be man-made or naturally occurring, and they can be intermittent or perennial. For an intermittent watercourse to be classified as a watercourse, it must flow for longer than a particular storm event and must have some evidence of reoccurrence or regularity, such as waterborne detritus, scour and/or water loving plants. Vernal pools, which can be described as springtime puddles in the woods, also qualify as watercourses.
- What can be done to seasonally wet sections?
Some seasonally wet portions of residential properties are in fact wetlands despite the fact that they are covered with lawn and/or do not remain wet throughout the year. As explained above, wetland determination is made based on soil characteristics. What appears above ground defines the functional significance of a wetland, not its presence or absence. It is best if these areas are naturally vegetated. This does not necessarily mean that the area has to be ugly. The Inland Wetlands Commission has approved applications that transform an aesthetically displeasing spot into an attractive, naturally landscaped area. The use of native shrubs, trees and herbaceous plants (grasses, flowers, etc) can be very appealing and environmentally friendly. Plans to fill or drain wetlands are inconsistent with the intent of the regulations and are rarely approved. Property owners may hire a soil scientist to delineate their wetlands, or the Director of Environmental Affairs can meet with you on-site to discuss the likelihood of a wetlands designation and possible options for improvement.
- Can the pond on my property be filled in?
Many pond owners are dismayed by their ponds as the water levels drop and the weeds increase throughout the summer. This disappointment and maintenance burden has brought about the question, can a pond be filled in? As there is increasing documentation declaring the environmental negatives of our largely manmade ponds, the concept of eliminating ponds is gaining support. The Inland Wetlands Commission has approved a permit to restore a wetland in place of a dying pond.
Persons contemplating this option need to be aware that this should not be viewed as a means to create more lawn. The Commission will likely be looking for reclaimed streams and wetlands to include native plantings consistent with our natural floral community and surface hydrology consistent with pre-pond conditions.
- May I create a pond in my stream?
A proposal to create a pond should be made after careful consideration of the future pond’s support system, i.e., the size of the watershed contributing to the pond, the depth of the pond, and how often it will be fully flushed. Ponds should be at least eight feet deep and have sideslopes of 1:3, with more shallow slopes for the first 18 inches of depth. This baseline design information will determine the minimum size your pond should be. If there is a small watershed, or if the pond will be in a stream that flows only part of the year, then the flushing rate will be low, and the likelihood of nuisance algal blooms and floating vegetation will increase. Additionally, the pond should be designed with habitat goals in mind, not just aesthetic goals, e.g., there should be a buffer area of tall native grasses or the like between lawn and water’s edge to keep lawn chemicals and clippings out of the pond and to discourage geese from congregating.
The negative aspects of ponds are: they act wonderfully well as sediment traps, collecting road sand and other suspended sediments that must periodically be cleaned out; they are strongly influenced by land use practices adjacent to and upstream from the pond, often resulting in nuisance pond weeds; inadequate shoreline vegetation invites geese to your property; ponds provide warmed water downstream, contributing to thermal pollution; and they often break up contiguous sections of natural habitat, which are more ecologically valuable than the pond habitat. The Norwalk River Watershed Initiative, in which Wilton is playing an active role, has identified ornamental ponds as a factor contributing to the degradation of our surface water quality and aquatic habitat.
Creation of a pond requires approval of the Inland Wetlands Commission. The application fee is $630, and professionals are generally needed to prepare the mapping and supporting documents. If the pond creation involves a dam, then Connecticut’s Department of Environmental Protection, Dam Safety Division will also require a permit. Larger ponds and larger streams with a more extensive watershed may require additional permits from the DEP and the Army Corps of Engineers.
- If I want to cut down some trees or brush on my
property, do I need a permit?
If the trees, brush, etc. are within 50 feet of a wetland and/or 100 feet of a watercourse, and if more than one or two trees are to be removed, then a permit from the Inland Wetlands Department is required. State law allows persons to conduct “landscape maintenance” without a permit in a regulated area, provided the work does not change the character of the area. What this means is that if you have a wooded area with ground cover, shrubs and trees, and your proposed activity would eliminate the shrub layer, a permit would be required as this would be a regulated activity. By eliminating the shrub layer, the diversity of the forest community is reduced, and the character of the land is thus altered. Since this portion of the regulations is seen as vague to many homeowners and landscapers, it is best to speak with the Inland Wetlands Department staff before undertaking any project that would clear more than a couple of trees or bushes. Landscape work is the leading cause of wetland violations, indicating the need for greater caution and inquiries on the part of landowners and contractors. Staff will visit your site to discuss the project, regulations and, if applicable, the permitting process. There is no charge for this consultation.
- Do I need a permit to remove trees?
In short, it depends. When you are working in areas more than 50 feet from wetlands and 100 feet from watercourses you do not need a permit to remove trees on your property. However, before you cut, remember the following: Trees shade and thus cool our homes in the summer and buffer them from the winds of winter; they provide food, nesting sites and cover for wildlife; and, critically important, trees help to clean our polluted air through their respiratory process. It is to the benefit of the environment and all of us to leave our residential lots wooded. Moreover, trees enhance the value of homes. And, of course, wooded areas require less care than lawn.
If you plan to remove one or two trees in or adjacent to a wetlands or watercourse, it is unlikely that you will need a permit. If more trees are to be removed, then a permit from the Inland Wetlands Commission will be required. Commission staff are available to discuss your project on-site to provide guidance on potential wetlands impacts and to help you with the permitting process.
- What are my options for leaf disposal?
Leaf disposal in Wilton is limited to keeping them on-site or having a landscape service remove them from the property. Leaves are not accepted at the Transfer Station and, in accordance with state law, cannot be burned. If the leaves are to be disposed of on-site, be sure they are not repeatedly dumped in the same area of a wetland. If leaves are piled in the same area year after year, they will be considered fill, which is illegal in a wetland without a permit. Disperse leaves throughout the wooded areas on-site so they can decompose without measurable accumulation. Leaves can also be composted on-site for use as a rich humus additive to gardens and lawns. Also, be sure that you and your landscaper do not blow leaves into any waterways. The excess leaves settle out in downstream ponds, accelerating their death, provide a source of abnormally rich nutrients that degrade water quality, and clog downstream structures, increasing the possibility of upstream flooding.
- Can material other than leaves be burned?
According to state law, only brush under four inches in diameter can be burned. Materials such as leaves, household garbage and construction debris may not be burned. If you wish to burn brush, you must obtain a permit from the Fire Department. Bonfires for cooking or “ceremonial” purposes are also permitted through the Fire Department.
- When is a driveway permit needed?
A driveway permit is needed when an existing driveway is realigned with the road or a second entrance is made, as well as when a new driveway is constructed. A permit will involve a review by the Department of Public Works to see that the intersection with the road is safe. The Zoning Enforcement Officer will examine the proposed slope to see that it is less than 18% and will inquire if the driveway alteration is related to any home business use. Lastly, the Director of Environmental Affairs will review the plans to determine if there are any regulated areas affected by the proposal.
- Can I remove or replace the stone wall in my front yard?
Stone walls are beautiful reminders of Wilton’s colonial rural past. Long ago farmers built them to clear fields of stones, to separate fields and to mark property lines. When farms were subdivided into building lots for development, the existing network of stone walls were often used to demarcate the new property lines. Stone walls that lie on property lines are called boundary walls and are jointly owned by the abutting property owners. You should contact your neighbor before undertaking work on a boundary wall.
Stone walls along the front of your property may also be boundary walls, and the Town may be co-owner of the walls. Before you begin work on a stone wall parallel to or near a road, take care to determine ownership of the wall. The location of the road is not always a good indication of where your property line lies. Check the survey map of your property if you have one; if not, you may ask the Department of Public Works for its maps of your road.
The Town has an interest in the stone walls that it owns in whole or in part. Historic, dry-laid walls serve a variety of functions that the Town is interested in protecting. The many stone walls that line our roads lend considerably to the rural character of Wilton. Additionally, the spaces between the stones of the wall provide important habitat for wildlife which depend on the nooks and crannies for hibernation, nesting and protection from predators.
With the above attributes in mind, guidelines have been established for the construction or reconstruction of stone walls partially or wholly on Town land. The guidelines require that walls be built with native fieldstone, not tight- fitting angular stone. The walls should be dry-laid without cement or mortar. Walls should retain typical colonial dimensions and be a minimum of two feet in depth and a maximum of three feet high.
Lastly, by definition, all boundary walls should be rebuilt in place on the property line. Additional information can be obtained from the Environmental Affairs Office.
- Does my property go up to the edge of the road?
No, with few historical exceptions, a private property boundary begins some 12-20 feet back from the road. Roads are constructed in linear parcels called rights-of-way that are owned by the Town or State. Most of our residential streets are constructed in a 50 foot-wide ROW that was dedicated when the neighborhood was developed. And in general, but not always, the road was centered within that ROW, leaving a 12+ foot strip of land on either side of the road. In this 12 feet, utilities are placed, snow is piled, and sight lines are maintained among other activities. However, because many of our roads date back to colonial times, the ROW can be irregular and the placement of the road may be far from centered. When contemplating work within 20 feet of the road and when you are unsure of your actual property boundary, it is best to check with Town Hall for any maps or records that may be of assistance or get guidance from the Department of Public Works regarding potential conflicts of your project with ROW uses.
- If I suspect my septic system is failing or otherwise mal-
functioning, is there a department in Town Hall to assist me?
The Department of Health will be able to give guidance on suspected failures on your property or follow up with neighboring properties where odors or fouled runoff appear to originate.
- What is my septic system comprised of?
The subsurface sewage disposal system, as it is properly called, consists of a septic tank, possibly a pump chamber, and a leaching field. All wastewater generated from a home discharges to the septic tank. The tank, usually located 25-50 feet from the house, is essentially a concrete box fitted with an inlet, outlet, baffles and access holes on top. All wastewater from the home, which contains both solids and liquids, is discharged to the septic tank. Solids settle to the bottom and liquids are pushed through the outlet as new wastewater enters the tank and displaces a corresponding volume. Where the leaching fields are at a lower elevation than the tank, gravity pulls the liquids to the fields. Where the leaching fields are actually higher in elevation, a pump, situated in a pump chamber quite similar in configuration to the septic tank, pushes the effluent up to the leaching fields.
Leaching fields have a variety of structures to distribute the effluent, but the basic concept is to spread the liquid effluent over a linear path to afford consumption of bacteria and percolation of water into the ground. Some older systems may have different configurations, but the principles are the same. Bacteria are literally consumed by microbes that form a crust where the soil and the gravel substrate of the leaching trench meet.
The health of these microbes is essential to keep untreated effluent from polluting the surrounding environment. When the microbes are healthy and active, evidence of bacteria will be absent within 15 feet of the leaching trench.
- How is the size of my leaching field determined?
Contrary to the belief of many, the size of the leaching field is not determined by the number of bathrooms, but rather by the number of bedrooms in combination with soil conditions. The theory is that it is the number of bedrooms that more accurately reflects how many people will reside in a dwelling, thereby defining the volume of effluent discharged.
The second consideration is the nature of the soil that receives the liquid effluent. The rate at which soil absorbs water is called the percolation rate. Since our soils differ from area to area, so does the percolation rate. The slower the “perc” rate and the higher the number of bedrooms, the bigger the leaching field has to be.
- Can the microbes that digest effluent bacteria be
damaged by household practices?
When toxic substances are poured down the household drains, microbes that digest the effluent may be killed off, threatening the viabilityof the septic system. Additionally, the microbes do not break down the toxic substance, leaving it to leach out into our ground and surface waters. It is best to dispose of unwanted cleaners and chemicals at Wilton’s annual Household Hazardous Waste Collection Day.
A second risk to the long-term health of the septic system is the burden of solids on the system. Solids will settle in the septic tank, however, if the tank is not pumped out every three to five years, solids can get pushed into the leaching fields and clog them. This type of failure can result in effluent surfacing near the leaching fields. Worse yet, the abundance of solids in the tank can clog its outlet, forcing effluent to back up into the house.
Best management practices for septic maintenance begin with limiting what goes down the drain. Utilize Wilton’s Household Hazardous Waste collection each fall, or attend one of many neighboring community collections in the spring or fall. Dispose of only minimal paper and food products down the drain. Stagger the use of water by running appliances at different times of the day and avoid multiple, back to back showers. If construction equipment or other vehicles are introduced on-site, be sure they do not traverse the leaching fields or any other part of the system. Compacted soil will reduce the ability of the system to process water, and many pipes and septic tanks have been crushed accidentally. Lastly, pump out the septic tank routinely every three years or so, depending on the size and activity of your family.
- Where can I get a copy of a map of my septic system?
The Health Department maintains records of installations and repair work done on residential septic systems. However, it may not have complete records, especially for older homes. If the Health Department does not have a map, check with the company that pumps your septic tank. If all else fails and you need to know the location and extent of your system, septic professionals can probe the yard and define the system.
- Where can I get a plot plan?
If one is on file with the Town, you can get a copy at the Building/Health Department. Subdivision maps and other property maps may be on file in the Town Clerk’s office. Plot plans or foundation plans are filed with the Town as part of modern record keeping in association with new construction or significant additions or site alterations. If the home is older and no construction has taken place in recent decades, the chance of finding a plot plan on file is reduced. Contrary to the belief of some, there is no requirement when properties are sold to have a plot plan prepared, let alone file it with the town.
- Can I get a map showing the wetlands and water-courses
on my property?
The Town of Wilton has relatively poor mapping of our wetland and water resources. If a property has been subject to review in the past, that information would be available. Since wetlands change very slowly (think geologic time) older maps retain their value over the years. If no prior wetland mapping has been prepared for the site, Inland Wetland Commission staff can visit the site to assess the presence or absence of the regulated resources. Depending on the extent of wetlands, the proximity of a proposed activity and the need for accurate wetland delineation, a soil scientist can be hired by the interested party to mark the wetland boundary.
- What are the regulations governing fences?
As stated in the Zoning Regulations, fences can be solid up to a height of six feet, above which they must be 75% open. Most lattice does not meet the 75% open criteria. There is no restriction regarding the placement of the “good” or finished side. Inland Wetlands Regulations generally do not regulate fences unless grading or clearing is needed to accommodate the fence. If the fence is in close proximity to the road, be sure its placement does not hinder sight lines. Also be certain that the fence is placed on your property, whether erected by the road or other abutting property.
- Does Wilton have a noise ordinance?
No, Wilton does not regulate by ordinance noise volume or restrict the time or days for noise on either residential or commercial properties. The exception to this may be found with certain larger scale building projects. The Planning and Zoning Commission may, as part of an approval resolution, place conditions that govern the hours of construction. Concerns regarding noise and a proposed project need to be voiced during the Commission’s review of the application if they are to be incorporated into the approval document.
- Do I need a permit for a shed?
Yes, sheds need to be permitted, whether they are big or little, permanent or just on cinder blocks. What permits are required varies. All sheds need a building and zoning permit. The zoning official will examine the placement of the shed to see that it conforms to your zone’s setbacks and that other codes such as site coverage are in compliance. The Building Code among other considerations will require sheds in excess of 200 square feet to have footings. Lastly, the placement of the shed will be examined for proximity to wetlands and watercourses. If it is in regulated areas, then a wetland permit will also be needed.
- May I keep horses, livestock, chickens, guinea hens,
etc., on my property?
You may keep up to three horses in all residential one-acre and two-acre districts in Wilton, but you cannot have more than one horse per half-acre up to a maximum of three. Riding stables are also allowed in residential zones subject to special permit and site plan approvals.
As for livestock, farms are allowed in Wilton subject to conditions which disallow “breeding, raising or habitation of fur-bearing animals, pigs or goats, commercial poultry farms, and stands for the sale of product or commercial processing of products.”
Single-Family Residential Districts permit farms and the definition of “Farm” allows the raising of domestic farm animals, of which poultry is included.
- When and where can I dispose of leftover paints,
cleaners, lawn products, etc. (a.k.a. hazardous waste)?
Once per year, on the last Saturday in October, Wilton conducts its Household Hazardous Waste Collection Day. On this day, Wilton residents and residents of surrounding towns within our recycling district may properly dispose of their hazardous materials found in their homes. Residents of Wilton may also participate in the surrounding towns’ hazardous waste collection days that are held on various dates in the spring and fall each year. You can contact the Environmental Affairs office in early April for a list of the upcoming hazardous waste day events.
- When and where can I dispose of unwanted electronics?
The Environmental Affairs office works in conjunction with the Department of Public Works and the Connecticut Resource and Recovery Authority www.crra.org and has developed a program whereby Wilton residents can safely recycle their unused or unwanted electronics. Please contact Wilton’s Director of Environmental Affairs (563.0180) to learn of upcoming electronics recycling collection events in our area that Wilton residents may attend.
- Does the Town spray or treat for mosquitoes?
The Town does not spray insecticides for mosquitoes. However, the Town will apply larvicide to Town properties and catch basins as needed. Solid blocks of Altosid will be used in catch basins and BTI will be used in stagnant water pools.
- Should I be concerned with the mosquitoes that will
breed in wetland areas?
There are 150 mosquito species in North America - 48 of which have been identified in Connecticut. Of the 48, only 12 bite humans and livestock, and only 5 of the 12 species may carry the West Nile Virus. Those species that are most commonly identified as carriers of WNV regularly feed on birds and occasionally on mammals, such as humans. These mosquitoes, referred to as “container- breeding variety”, breed in stagnant water such as that found in old tires, road catch basins, rain gutters or birdbaths. These species will not be typically found breeding in your wetland areas, as they are not considered the “container- breeding” variety.
